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Wal-Mart critics take campaign on road with national bus tour
The Associated Press
July 31, 2006
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One of Wal-Mart Stores Inc.'s most
vociferous union-funded critics is taking its campaign against the
world's largest retailer on the road with a cross-country bus tour from
New York to Seattle with a stop in Connecticut.
The tour begins Tuesday and will
feature several Democratic politicians.
WakeUpWalMart.com, launched last year
by the United Food and Commercial Workers union, will visit 35 cities in
19 states for 35 days of rallies, town hall meetings and state fair
visits to back its calls on Wal-Mart for higher pay and better health
insurance for workers.
The tour plans to stop in Bridgeport
on Wednesday with a rally on the steps of the City Hall annex. Among
Connecticut Democratic politicians scheduled to appear are U.S. Rep.
Rosa DeLauro, U.S. Sen. Joe Lieberman, U.S. Senate candidate Ned Lamont,
gubernatorial candidate John DeStefano and Diana Farrell, a candidate
for Congress.
Wal-Mart, based in Bentonville, Ark.,
dismissed the tour as a "political stunt" and said the group was
attacking the wrong company.
"Wal-Mart offers associates $23 per
month health plans, and in some places as low as $11 per month, creates
tens of thousands of jobs per year and is selling more organic and
environmentally friendly products," Wal-Mart spokesman David Tovar said.
Unions should let working families
decide for themselves where to shop, Tovar said.
WakeUpWalMart.com said Democratic
politicians appearing at some of the stops will include Lamont, Ohio
U.S. Senate candidate Sherrod Brown, Iowa Gov. Tom Vilsack and former
vice presidential candidate John Edwards.
The group approached Republicans as
well but got no response, said Chris Kofinis, a spokesman for
WakeUpWalMart.
Both sides have been sparring since
WakeUpWalMart.com and Wal-Mart Watch launched separate campaigns last
year to pressure Wal-Mart for change after failing for years to organize
its stores. Wal-Mart Watch is backed by the Service Employees
International Union. Both groups say they want to pressure Wal-Mart into
becoming a better employer, not run it out of business.
In response, Wal-Mart hired a team of
about 35 consultants at Edelman, which bills itself as the world's
largest independently owned public relations company, as well as
lobbyists in Washington, D.C.
The company has also launched a raft
of initiatives, including adding more affordable health care plans for
employees, adopting ambitious environmental goals and boosting diversity
among employees and its suppliers.
Copyright (c) 2006, The Associated
Press
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Wal-mart allows
trade union
Wang Ping
CCTV.com
07-30-2006
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Retail giant Wal-mart has established
a trade union for its subsidiary in Jinjiang of southeastern China's
Quanzhou city. This is the chain store's first trade union in China.
A week ago, 30 Wal-mart employees
filed an application to the Trade Union of Quanzhou for membership and
for the organization of a trade union of their own. The application
conformed to China's trade union law and was approved.
Wal-mart China released a statement,
saying it respected its employees' will and that it would assume
relevant liabilities. The chained retailer entered the market of the
Chinese mainland in 1996. So far, it has set up 59 subsidiaries in 30
cities, with over 23000 employees.
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What appalls
Wal-Mart will improve America
Dominic Rushe
The Sunday Times
July 30, 2006
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AMERICANS used to say “What’s good for
General Motors (GM) is good for America”. These days Wal-Mart is the
corporate body against which the country’s health is most often
measured. The giant retailer is the largest single private employer in
the US. It employs 1.7m people and accounts for $8.90 of every $100
spent in an American retail store. Last year Wal-Mart had sales of $316
billion (€250 billion). What affects Wal-Mart, affects America.
But unlike GM in its heyday, Wal-Mart
is a divisive company. Millions love its low prices, millions hate the
way it gets them.
Last week the company lost its fight
against a proposal in Chicago to up the minimum wage that could have a
significant impact on a move to raise the wage across America.
The measure requires retailers with
more than $1 billion in annual sales and stores of at least 90,000 sq ft
to pay workers at least $10 an hour in wages plus $3 in fringe benefits
by mid-2010. The current minimum wage in Chicago’s state of Illinois is
$6.50 an hour and the federal minimum is $5.15.
The median hourly wage for a retail
salesperson in the Chicago metropolitan area in 2005 was $9.41,
according to the US Department of Labour’s Bureau of Labour Statistics.
So the proposal isn’t so far off base.
But Wal-Mart never gives up without a
fight. The company is appealing (pause for laughter).
“This vote sadly puts politics ahead
of Chicago’s working men and women. It sends a message that Chicago is
closed for business, closed for development and closed for job
creation,” said Wal-Mart.
But there are other cities with living
wage laws including San Francisco and Washington. Both look pretty much
open.
The Chicago bill is one of several
that Wal-Mart and other large retailers are fighting across the country.
So far none has passed into law. Earlier this month a federal judge
struck down a Maryland ruling that increased the minimum wage.
The Retail Industry Leaders
Association (RILA), a trade group that sued to overturn the Maryland
law, is fighting to overturn a similar law passed by Suffolk County on
Long Island, New York.
“The ordinance . . . is a clear
disincentive for more than a dozen retailers impacted by it to locate or
expand their operations in the city of Chicago,” the RILA president,
Sandy Kennedy, said in a statement last week.This is not a worry shared
by Wal-Mart rival Costco. The average hourly wage of employees of the
warehouse club operator is $16. After three years a typical full-time
Costco worker makes about $42,000. The company also picks up 92% of its
workers’ health insurance.
Costco is the largest warehouse club
operator in the US, beating the Wal-Mart-owned Sam’s Club into second
place. A 2004 Business Week study found Costco employees sell 50% more
per square foot of sales space, and contribute to profits almost 25%
higher than Sam’s Club.
If he’s watching, and he is, Lee
Scott, Wal-Mart’s chief executive seems unconvinced. In a speech last
year, the world’s most powerful retailer characteristically tackled the
GM analogy head on.
“Critics believe that Wal-Mart should
play the role General Motors played after the second world war . . .
[and] establish the post-world war middle class that the country is so
proud of. The facts are that retailing doesn’t perform that role in the
economy. Retailing doesn’t perform that role in any country,” he said.
That may have been true in the past,
but as the country’s largest employer does Wal-Mart have the clout to
destroy America’s middle class?
The tide may be turning against Scott.
Republicans anxious about midterm elections and their unpopular
president are warming to a rise in the minimum wage. The $5.15 minimum
has not been raised since 1997 and a $2 increase is being considered. If
passed it will further weaken Wal-Mart’s case.
What’s good for America may not be
good for Wal-Mart.
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Wal-Mart workers
in China form first union
Servihoo
29 Jul 2006
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US retail giant Wal-Mart Stores saw
its first trade union formed for workers at one its 60 shops in China
where it started doing business in 1996.
Establishment of the union was the
initiative of some 30 Wal-Mart employees in the southeast province of
Fujian, Xinhua news agency said Saturday.
For the past two years the world's
biggest retailer had resisted efforts to set up local unions, which are
all affiliated with the All-China Federation of Trade Unions (ACFTU)
which was established by the ruling Communist Party and claims some 150
million members.
Wal-Mart has always maintained its
employees were free to set up unions if they wished and insisted it was
"in total conformity with Chinese law".
But at the start of July, senior
Chinese official Wang Zhaoguo, who is also president of ACFTU, singled
out Wal-Mart for failing to establish unions at its stores while
proposing to make it compulsory for foreign firms to set up unions for
employees.
According to China's trade union law,
all employees have the right to join ACFTU, the country's only legal
trade union.
However joining the union offers no
guarantee for staff against exploitation, with the ACFTU often
criticised by international labor rights groups for favoring business
interests over workers' rights.
The nation's trade union law outlaws
workers from forming independent unions or organising collective
bargaining activities outside the ACFTU.
Since it arrived in China in 1996,
Wal-Mart has opened 60 stores in 29 cities and is said to employ more
than 30,000 people across the country.
China is a leading source of cheap
goods for Wal-Mart's US operations, with 18 billion dollars' worth of
merchandise procured in the country in 2004.
Wal-Mart is keen for a bigger slice of
foreign markets as it battles sluggish sales growth at home, lawsuits
over its labour practices and an image for brutal cost-cutting at the
expense of employees and suppliers.
Nowhere is more enticing for foreign
retailers than China, where booming consumer spending led by a growing
middle class accounted for one-third of the country's economic growth
last year.
Wal-Mart employs 1.7 million people
worldwide, including 1.3 million in the United States, making it easily
the world's largest retailer.
But in China, the group has lagged
behind Carrefour of France, which has 78 stores. Britain's Tesco group
has 31 stores in China and plans to open another 15 this year. German
group Metro is another major foreign player.
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FRANKFURT, GERMANY: Wal-Mart will bail out, leaving it crying in its
bier
THE NEWS TRIBUNE
July 29th, 2006
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Wal-Mart Stores, admitting defeat in
Germany’s giant but cutthroat retail market, announced Friday that it
would sell its 85 stores in the country to a German retailer, incurring
a loss of $1 billion. The decision to sell out to the Metro Group came
two months after Wal-Mart sold its stores in South Korea. It amounts to
a marked retreat by the world’s largest retailer from its breakneck
global expansion.
In Germany, analysts say, Wal-Mart
never got traction in a market characterized by unrelenting price
competition, well-established discounters and the cultural resistance of
shoppers to giant stores where vegetables and lawn mowers might be only
aisles apart.
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Retailer Metro says it plans to buy out Wal-Mart's stores in Germany
MELISSA EDDY
July 28, 2006
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BERLIN (AP) - Wal-Mart Stores Inc.
said Friday it will sell its 85 stores in Germany to Metro AG, a move
that effectively ends a nearly decade-long effort by the world's largest
retailer to crack the market in Europe's biggest economy.
It is the U.S.-based company's second
international withdrawal this year, after Wal-Mart pulled out of the
highly competitive South Korean market in May. The retailer is instead
concentrating its growth efforts on China and Central America.
"As we focus our efforts on where we
can have the greatest impact on our growth and return on investment
strategies, it has become increasingly clear that in Germany's business
environment it would be difficult for us to obtain the scale and results
we desire," Michael Duke, a vice-chairman of Bentonville, Ark.-based
Wal-Mart, said in a statement.
The deal with Metro, under which the
German retailer will take over 19 pieces of Wal-Mart real estate and
lease the rest of the other locations, remains subject to approval by
authorities. Financial terms were not disclosed.
Duesseldorf-based Metro said it would
book a one-time gain from the acquisition as the assets are worth more
than the purchase price. The stores, which had sales near two billion
euros ($2.55 billion US) in 2005, will be incorporated into Metro's Real
Hypermarket brand.
Wal-Mart, which has more than 6,500
stores in 14 other countries and serves 176 million customers per week,
expects to incur a pretax loss related to the transaction of
approximately $1 billion for the second quarter of fiscal year 2007.
The company entered the German market
in 1997 with the acquisition of the Wertkauf and Interspar hypermarket
chains. But Wal-Mart's German stores, which employ 11,000 people, have
struggled to break into the local market.
Sy Schlueter, chief executive of
investment house Copernicus in Hamburg, said Wal-Mart had trouble
winning over German consumers, who tend to be very price-focused and
would rather drive to a different store if they know they can buy
something cheaper.
National discounters such as Lidl GmbH
and Aldi Einkauf GmbH put the heat on Wal-Mart's sales, he said, by
having the same merchandise at prices that were often just as
competitive.
Furthermore, Schlueter said consumers
rejected some of Wal-Mart's signature features, like stores outside town
centres, employees required to smile and heartily greet customers, or
baggers at checkouts.
"These guys are businessmen,"
Schlueter said.
"The business had turnover, but if you
lose money for 10 years, you get out. Wal-Mart wasn't here to prove
their business model works, they were here to make money," Schlueter
said. "Apparently even their patience is not unlimited."
At its annual meeting last month,
Wal-Mart trumpeted its expansion abroad. Net sales for Wal-Mart last
year amounted to $312 billion, with its international division seeing
net sales and operating income rise 11.4 per cent.
But Germany is not the first foreign
country where Wal-Mart has struggled. Analysts said the sophistication
of South Korea's $26-billion discount market proved difficult for
Wal-Mart, as the company failed to attract customers to the stores and
housewives were dissatisfied with food and beverage offerings.
Wal-Mart also has struggled in Japan,
known for its finicky consumers, but has lately boosted its investment
there. In the last year, the company finished its push to gain a
majority share of Seiyu Ltd. in Japan, as well as acquiring stores in
Brazil and entering a partnership with a retail chain in Central
America.
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Wal-Mart:
'Auf Wiedersehen' Germany, Hello India
Exiting Germany and
South Korea a 'brilliant' move that will allow the No. 1 retailer to
enter India and expand faster in China, analysts say.
By Parija B. Kavilanz,
CNNMoney.com
July 28 2006
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NEW YORK (CNNMoney.com) -- Wal-Mart, a
company that doesn't like to admit defeat, did so for the second time in
months when it announced Friday that it would exit the German market
where it's been hard-pressed to find success.
In May, Wal-Mart (Charts) announced it
was pulling out of another challenging market - South Korea - where it
operated 16 stores.
These setbacks may be humbling to the
world's largest retailer, but some retail industry watchers say Wal-Mart
is making some very clever moves at the same time.
"It's a brilliant decision by
Wal-Mart," said Love Goel, CEO of Growth Ventures Group, an investment
firm focused on retailers. "Korea and Germany's retail market is too
competitive. Secondly, consumers there really aren't aligned with
Wal-Mart's core value proposition of offering bottom-barrel prices."
Freed of having to worry about
cracking the difficult German and Korean markets, Wal-Mart will probably
now aggressively forge ahead with its plans to enter and expand into
more lucrative markets -- primarily India and China, Goel and others
think.
This is more a necessity than a
"would-like" for Wal-Mart given that the retailer is keen to capture
international growth opportunities as it faces market saturation in the
United States, where it already operates close to 4,000 stores.
In that regard, "Let's fish where the
fish are biting," is becoming Wal-Mart's modus operandi, said Craig
Johnson, president of retail consulting group Customer Growth Partners.
"Even for the largest retailer in the
world, you're not going to hit a home run everywhere you play," Johnson
said. "If it's not working in Germany and South Korea you have to
redeploy your resources to a faster-growing situation with more
opportunity."
India and China, he said, are the two
biggest growth engines of the future for Wal-Mart. "Leaving Germany is
smart. It takes just as much management attention to butt your head
against the wall in Germany and Korea as it does to crank up the engine
in China and India," he said, implying that Wal-Mart can't afford to do
both.
A retail nirvana in the east According
to Goel, China and India have among the world's most lucrative retail
markets, valued at $700 billion and $300 billion each.
China is ahead of India with 20
percent of its market characterized as "organized" with established
retail chains, versus only 3 percent for India. India's remaining 97
percent is comprised of 12 million mom-and-pop shops.
"The $1 trillion Indian and Chinese
retail sectors are much larger than Germany, Korea or even all of Europe
put together," Goel said. Further, he estimates the retail sector in
both countries will grow by at least 30 percent annually for the next
decade.
Wal-Mart already operates more than 55
stores in China and is ramping up its growth strategy in the face of
stiff competition from European supermarket operators such as French
supermarket chain Carrefour and Germany's largest retailer Metro, which
are expanding at a fast clip.
India plans The retailer isn't yet in
India, but it could be getting close.
India's complex foreign direct
investment, or FDI, regulations, currently bar international retailers
from directly entering the market. In other words, international
retailers who have set up shop in India have opted for franchising deals
with local partners or entered into joint-venture partnerships with
Indian companies.
The Indian government did somewhat
relax its FDI rules earlier this year, allowing "single-brand" retailers
such as Nike or Gucci to own 51 percent of their business operations in
India. However, this still precludes Wal-Mart, since the retailer sells
a variety of brands in its stores.
Wal-Mart spokeswoman Amy Wyatt told
CNNMoney that the company recently won approval to set up a "liaison"
office in Bangalore through which it plans to quickly study the India
market.
She also agreed that Wal-Mart's exit
from South Korea and Germany allowed the retailer to "focus on other
opportunities like China and India."
Media reports in the Indian press
earlier this month said Wal-Mart was in discussions with a leading
Indian real estate firm DLF Universal Ltd. for a franchise deal. The
reports suggested DLF plans to develop a number of malls around the
country over the next five years with Wal-Mart stores located in a
select number of locations.
A spokesman for Delhi-based DLF, who
did not want to be identified, told CNNMoney that the company was in
discussions with Wal-Mart but declined to offer details because the
company is in a "quiet period" ahead of its upcoming IPO.
Wyatt declined to comment on the
matter.
Given Wal-Mart's supply chain and
distribution expertise coupled with its extensive merchandise mix and
lack of competition in India, Goel said that if the retail behemoth gets
its business off the ground there, it could "easily sustain triple-digit
or high double-digit growth annually over the next 5 to 10 years."
Moreover, he also has an idea about
how Wal-Mart could potentially bypass India's FDI roadblock.
"There is nothing stopping
multi-brand, multi-channel retailers like Wal-Mart, Target, J.C. Penney,
Best Buy or Home Depot from entering India tomorrow," he said.
How?
"The most optimal, capital-efficient
way to enter the India retail market is through a multi-channel,
direct-to-consumer model involving the Internet, TV, catalogs and mobile
phones supported by warehouses to stock inventory and fulfill orders,"
he said. "This eschews the high real-estate costs for retail stores.
India is also one of the largest Internet user populations in the world
and twice as many cellphones as landlines."
"Best of all, this model circumvents
current FDI regulations," he said.
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FDIC delays
decision on Wal-Mart banking rules
India Daily
Jul. 28, 2006
The Federal Deposit Insurance Corp. on
Friday said it was placing a six-month moratorium on applications for
ownership changes for industrial loan companies, more commonly known as
the Wal-Mart Stores Inc. case.
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Wal-Mart a victim of
its own success
Stephen Ellis
GREENBACK
July 27, 2006
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WHEN you are five times the size of
your nearest rival, dominate the market and have annual sales of $US321
billion ($425 billion), where is there left to go? That is what Wall
Street is asking about Wal-Mart, despite the retailer's buoyant
financial results. Over the past year, Wal-Mart has tried to
reinvigorate its share price by paring its famously low inventories even
further, cutting labour costs, and depending less heavily on price
competition by edging up its market. All this has lifted gross margins,
which previously had been falling as sales grew too slowly to keep pace
with operating costs. Yet, Wal-Mart's share price has recently drifted
back down towards five-year lows touched last September.
International expansion remains the
most plausible growth story that the world's largest retailer (and
second-largest company, by revenue) can tell investors. Despite
struggles in markets such as Germany and more recently Britain, foreign
sales are growing at 30 per cent and now account for a fifth of
Wal-Mart's revenues.
But it is the other four-fifths of the
business that has Wall Street fretting, and where Wal-Mart is under most
pressure to tinker with its winning formula - low prices, superb
logistics and inventory management, a cheap non-union workforce and use
of its buying power to crunch suppliers.
Wal-Mart's US same-store sales growth
slowed to about 3 per cent in each of the past two years, half the level
of the 1990s and lagging growth in US consumer spending.
During that period, smaller rivals
such as Target were more successful at broadening their appeal beyond
basic wares and attracting more affluent consumers. Meanwhile, "dollar
store" retailers at the low end of the market also managed to grow
faster than Wal-Mart by specialising in that niche.
Given its vast size compared to its
rivals, more sluggish growth prompted investors to question whether
Wal-Mart had maxed-out its "share of wallet" among the low and moderate
income earners it largely serves.
Wal-Mart responded almost a year ago
by launching its campaign to trim inventories and costs, and to lift
sales by offering a smaller number of items per store, and focusing more
space and attention on better-selling goods tailored for that store.
It also launched an ambitious 18-month
program to remodel 1800 of its US stores to make them more physically
attractive and hopefully induce affluent customers to stay longer and
buy items such as clothing or electrical goods as well as basic
groceries.
While the firm's efforts to cut costs
appear to have paid off, and boosted gross margins and its bottom line,
the strategy to lift top-line revenues in the US has been less
successful - monthly same-store sales are still growing only half as
fast as those at competitors.
Ironically, the store remodelling
program itself is now seen by many as yet another factor holding back
revenue growth, although it may pay off down the line.
As it attempts to regain momentum,
Wal-Mart also faces political distractions that its rivals do not -
ranging from an attempt in Maryland to pass a law forcing it to spend 8
per cent of its wages bill on worker health insurance, to skirmishes
with unions in the US and Canada, and the ceaseless battle against
reflexive local opposition whenever it tries to build a new store.
The firm also ran into
well-orchestrated opposition from US banks to its recent bid to gain
regulatory approval to offer a broader range of financial services, the
outcome of which is still pending. Wal-Mart already has a large business
offering services such as cheque cashing to the "underbanked" -
low-income groups without bank relationships. While it denies plans to
offer anything resembling "branch banking", financial services is
potentially an important growth area - if it can gain approval.
Its struggle with the banks is
symptomatic of a larger and puzzling problem for Wal-Mart - largely
because of its immense success, it has become a focal point for whining
from all sorts of US interests, some of it well-organised and
well-funded. Unions moan over its employment practices and skimpy
benefits, small and mid-size retailers complain over unfair prices,
local politicians and self-proclaimed resident action groups vehemently
oppose its new stores, and even upstream suppliers mutter about the
tough deals they are forced into.
Media coverage of all this has rubbed
off. Polling suggests around a third of Americans have a negative view
of Wal-Mart. Investors fear that this too may harm growth, given the
more affluent consumers it must attract to broaden its market may be
among those most attuned to its critics.
Wal-Mart is undeniably competitive and
ruthless, but most of the complaints against it are tenuous. In
particular, the idea that it destroys good jobs and actually increases
prices over time are likely wrong.
Studies by neutral economists suggest
Wal-Mart creates about three jobs for each one it destroys, and its
arrival in a market leads to a long-term fall of roughly 10 per cent in
the prices of packaged consumer goods, such as toothpaste or laundry
detergent, as high prices at the businesses so loudly opposed to its
entry are forced down.
And while the firm clearly relies upon
fairly inexpensive labour, it also generates a lot of jobs - globally,
it employs 1.4 million people. Even the griping about benefits has
become less true, as Wal-Mart attempts to offer more health coverage.
All this, if understood and accepted,
may therefore silence the politicians and gladden the economists - but
it doesn't do much for Wal-Mart's shareholders. While China, Brazil and
India are great prospects in the long-term, investors will continue to
ask a tougher question: where is US sales growth going to come from in
the near-term?
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Wal-Mart loses
battle in labour dispute
GlobeandMail
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Wal-Mart Canada Corp. has lost its
battle to have the Saskatchewan Labour Relations Board prohibited from
hearing cases related to efforts to unionize stores in the province. In
a written decision, Court of Queen's Bench Mr. Justice Frank Gerein said
there was "absolutely no evidence" of attempts to interfere with the
operations of the labour board or to require members of the board to
read certain union documents that were highly critical of Wal-Mart.
Wal-Mart had tried to argue the board is biased and should be prohibited
from dealing with cases related to the chain. The United Food and
Commercial Workers Union has applied to the labour relations board for
certification to represent workers at Wal-Mart stores in Weyburn, North
Battleford and Moose Jaw. Andrew Pelletier, vice-president of corporate
affairs with Wal-Mart Canada, said the company is reviewing the
decision. CP
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Organic for everyone,
the Wal-Mart way
America's biggest
company is also the world's biggest purchaser of organic cotton.
By Marc Gunther
Fortune
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NEW YORK (Fortune) -- The $300-billion
global cotton industry uses more pesticides and synthetic fertilizers
than any other crop. Cotton Inc., the industry trade group, says that's
nothing to worry about, but you don't have to be a scientist to know
that applying tons and tons of pesticides to the soil - more than 50
million pounds in the United States alone - probably isn't a good thing.
Just ask H. Lee Scott, the chief
executive of Wal-Mart Stores (Charts), which in the last couple of years
has become the world's biggest purchaser of organic cotton.
"We will not be measured by our
aspirations," says Wal-Mart CEO Lee Scott. "We will be measured by our
actions."
Wal-Mart saves the planet Well, not
quite. But CEO Lee Scott's green campaign, which started as PR, is
becoming a force of nature. (Read the story from Fortune.) Wal-Mart's
unsentimental reasons for promoting sustainable fishing
"Those toxins don't stop at the field,
but can leach into the waterways, and may eventually find their way into
animals, food and children," Scott said in a speech last year.
You probably know by now that Wal-Mart
has launched a sweeping drive to adopt business practices that are good
for the environment. You may have heard that Wal-Mart has been selling
organic cotton. This is the story behind the story - how and why the
company got involved, and how it's changing an industry.
The story begins, not with Scott, but
with a woman named Coral Rose. A native of southern California, Rose
buys organic food, wears organic clothes and uses all-natural cleaning
products for her home.
"I've lived an organic lifestyle for
about 15 years," says Rose. Both her parents died of cancer; that'll get
you thinking about chemicals in the air, water and food supply. Rose
worked for the clothing chain Wet Seal before joining Sams Club, a
division of Wal-Mart, as a ladies apparel buyer.
In the spring of 2004 - before
Wal-Mart launched its sustainability initiative - she placed an order
for organic cotton yoga outfits for Sams Club.
Although Sams Club is aimed at owners
of small businesses, the stores stock a limited selection of women's
clothes, as a "pick-me-up" for customers who are there to buy other
stuff, Rose explains.
The pastel-colored yoga tops sold for
less than $10, the loose-fitting pants for less than $14. They were a
big hit - about 190,000 units sold out in 10 weeks.
That got Lee Scott's attention. "We
gave our customers something they wanted, but something they might not
have been able to afford at specialty stores," he said. It was an early
sign that Wal-Mart's working-class and middle-income customers would be
willing to buy "green" products, so long as they were affordable.
Wal-Mart began working with a
nonprofit trade group called the Organic Exchange, which has been
promoting the use of organic cotton around the world since 2002.
The company's buyers and suppliers
toured organic cotton farms in Texas, California and Turkey, which is
the world's biggest grower of organic cotton. One trip, to a farm near
the town of Firebaugh, Ca., was especially memorable. They visited
organic fields and then looked at a crop-dusting facility, to learn
about chemicals and pesticides.
"There were crop dusters in the air
the whole day. It was pretty intense," said Rebecca Calahan Klein, the
founder and director of the Organic Exchange.
Today, Wal-Mart and Sams Club stock a
range of organic cotton products - baby clothes under the Baby George
brand, teenage fashion, and a line of bedsheets and towels. They've sold
5 million units of organic cotton ladies apparel in the last two years,
insiders say.
In none of this was Wal-Mart an
innovator. Patagonia converted its entire sportswear line to organic 10
years ago. Nike (Charts) promoted organic cotton, as did others, like
Eileen Fisher and Timberland (Charts). Retail sales of organic cotton
have doubled, from $245 million in 2001 to $583 million in 2005.
But the global supply was growing
rapidly too, and some farmers who converted to organic methods, which
can cost more, could not find buyers willing to pay a premium. They were
forced to sell their crop into the conventional cotton market at lower
prices.
Wal-Mart's entry has changed the game.
Five years ago, global production of organic cotton amounted to about
6,400 metric tons. In 2006, Wal-Mart and Sams Club will use about 6,800
metric tons. "They will be the largest buyer, by far," says Klein.
Just as important, Wal-Mart has made a
verbal five-year commitment to buy organic cotton, giving farmers the
assurance they need to produce it.
Beyond that, Wal-Mart will bring
visibility to organic cotton. "Wal-Mart has the biggest megaphone of
every company in the world," Klein says. "As they have more organic
products on their shelves, it will affect what consumers expect to see."
The Wal-Mart effect extends to the
cotton-growing regions of Turkey. Kees Maris, a Dutchman who oversees a
private organic cooperative of about 2,000 farmers called Mavideniz flew
all the way to Wal-Mart's home office in Bentonville a couple of weeks
ago to talk about organic cotton.
While other companies are also driving
demand for organics - his farmers grow figs and apricots along with
cotton - Wal-Mart is one of the few to get directly involved with the
farmers. "Their approach is very positive," he told me.
To be sure, the organic cotton
business remains small - less than 1 percent of the global cotton
industry. Cotton Inc., by the way, argues that too much fuss is being
made about pesticides and herbicides used by conventional methods.
"Farmers who live and work on their
land have every personal and economic incentive to use fewer chemicals
in production, not more," the organization says. You can find their
point of view here.
The environmental case is put forth by
the Organic Exchange and by an activist group called PANNA.
Make up your own mind, but know that
the next time you shop, you are doing more than buying a T-shirt or a
dress. You're voting with your dollars for one way of doing business, or
another.
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